Viking 110 flywheel mandatory update

All Viking 110 engines with aluminum flywheels (gold anodized or aluminum colored) should be replaced with the latest steel flywheel Exceptions is only for those inspecting the flywheel for cracks before every flight. Email Viking of how to obtain the latest flywheel at info@vikingaircraftengines.com  

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  • INSTALLATION VIDEO

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osvshgbbuAA
  • And yes, the 110 gears are identical to the gears for the 130 engine.
  • I have the aluminum flywheel with the studs, three rubber dampers with one hole and one stud each, and a driven flange on the input gear with holes to accept the damper studs. It looks exactly like the Gearbox video (Part I), except for the clear plastic shield between the dampers and gearbox. The unanswered question I posted a month ago was asking if the flywheel upgrade in the web store includes the 3 new dampers (with two holes) and the flange for the input shaft with the drive studs.

    Are spare input gears (pn 10510112) and driven gears (pn 10510111) available for the 110 gearbox? If these are not common parts with the 130 gearbox, I would like to get a set.
  • Sending us pictures by email of the existing parts is the most accurate way for us to determine what you do / do not need for parts
  • Since I'll be upgrading my 110 to the steel flywheel in the near future, I was also curious as to why a replacement spider drive(gearbox side) was necessary and separate from the steel upgrade in the store posting. I'll put forth my opinion and see if Jan concurs doubling as an answer to Gregg's inquiry. If one views the part one you tube video of the gearbox installation on an earlier 110 with the gold anodized and scalloped flywheel; the 3 dowel drive on the engine side is threaded and the rubber couplings have pressed in threaded dowels that accept retaining nuts. I'm suspecting that the separate replacement spider drive(gearbox side) is for those engines. My current flywheel is the flat aluminum disc with outer ring gear secured to it by several bolts/nuts. The 3 dowel spider drive couplings are not threaded and are smooth dowels so appears I can use the existing drive spiders and rubber couplings. I have been in contact with another 110 owner/operator who upgraded a while back and indicated it wasn't hat difficult and he was able to use the existing units.
  • What is the complete list of parts required to update the flywheel for V110? Is it just the steel flywheel? Can I still use the spider drive on the gearbox and the same dampers? I can't find any clear information on what needs to be replaced. Was also hoping to be pointed to the video Robert was asking about on 9/2 that was posted to the home page on removing the aluminum flywheel (I am at that stage), I can't seem to locate it with the search tool. I was able to remove the large bolts just not sure how to correctly pull the flywheel off. Gregg
  • I inspected my flywheel and did not see any evidence of cracks around the bolt holes. I also looked at the drive coupling video and web store for the flywheel upgrade. Does the flywheel upgrade kit include the new driven pin flange that goes on the gearbox input shaft? Are new dampers also included?

    It looks like moving the gearbox 1/8 inch forward may require some replumbing of the coolant tubing. It does not look like the 110 coolant tubing upgrade is on the web store anymore. Is it still available?
  • Just posted videos to home page of this forum
  • Jan,
    I have been unable to locate the video that goes through the steps of removing the gearbox and aluminum flywheel. Rather than "flying blind", it would be nice to know what the sequence of disassembly looks like before removing those large gearbox bolts. I am also concerned about removing those large bolts, especially if a lot of torque is required. If that is the case, would cautious use of an air wrench be acceptable to break them loose?
    Robert
  • Hi John
    On my flywheel the cracks were around the bolt holes where the doughnut attachment studs were installed.
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