"I have tried various versions including venting the valve cover, but have ended with using the stock valve cover with no vent. I do vent the oil tank into a catch tank on the firewall, but get almost no oil into it. Engine seems to be happiest with…"
"Jan, for those of us with the older engines, could you provide more detailed pictures of the above modification. I currently have a Honda valve cover with the vent piped into the top as you suggested. I also have a hose running from the oil filler…"
"The breather on the oil tank is vented into a plastic catch tank. The vent hole in the plastic tank is as big as the hose coming from the breather... not sure how I can increase the breathing with this set up.... ideas? "
"I have oil coming out of the air filter mounted on the valve cover. The internal pressure seems to be forcing oil out...any Ideas? "
"Fuel Filters for Fuel Injection
Is anyone running 40 micron ( or smaller ) filter between the pump and the fuel rail? All the information I read about fuel injection filters states that anything greater than 40 microns can damage or plug injectors.…"
Is anyone running 40 micron ( or smaller ) filter between the pump and the fuel rail? All the information I read about fuel injection filters states that anything greater than 40 microns can damage or plug injectors.…"
"By tube in the oil tank, I was referring to the square tube inside the tank that comes up from the bottom and connects to the hose leading up to the oil pump. Is it possible that given the suction pressure down this tube it is also drawing in air fr…"
"Oil pressure update.... Added more oil to just above the full mark on the dipstick. Climb out at 5000 rpm shows 68-70 psi for the first two minutes then a drop in pressure to about 45-48 psi after 3 minute climb, but not down into the 30s as before.…"
"Oil temp is running about 150-160 at present with almost a direct flow into the oil cooler. There is only about 1/2 to 1 inch of space between the fluted hole in the cowling and the oil cooler inlet."
"anti vortex cover ???? I believe I have the most up to date oil return line as I received the tank only 2 months ago."
"Oil pressure update. I have the new oil tank with the pickup from the bottom of the tank, as well as the vented Honda OEM valve cover. Running 15w 50 Mobil 1 oil. Startup and taxi pressure is 68-70psi. initial climb out is 65 psi then starts to d…"
"Switched back to 15W-50 yesterday and added a ground from the MGL gauges to the engine block (reference ground). On idle I had a constant 65 psi. Will fly in the next few days to see if this has resolved the issue."
"Greg,
I don't think I replaced the plug on mine when I made the switch. Other than the low oil pressure issue i am currently working on, which probably is not related, I have noticed no difference."
I don't think I replaced the plug on mine when I made the switch. Other than the low oil pressure issue i am currently working on, which probably is not related, I have noticed no difference."
"Looking for help from other flyers...someone may have had a similar experience.
After I installed my new oil tank a month ago I filled with new recommended Mobile 1 15W-50 oil and noticed a drop in climb oil pressure to 45 psi. The pressure in flig…"
After I installed my new oil tank a month ago I filled with new recommended Mobile 1 15W-50 oil and noticed a drop in climb oil pressure to 45 psi. The pressure in flig…"
Comments
Wow, sounds like the Viking is now a turbine that we have to spool up to start. I might have to grab a T-62 starter and instrument the engine for fuel flow at 20% and ignitor excitation. Actually, if your point of comparison is the Rotax soft start module (which only changes the timing during starter engagement), I can see no perceptible difference in cranking time before the engine starts with or without the soft start module. I would expect the same from Viking, retard the timing during initial cranking and advance it as the rpm increases. That should take only a couple of seconds to accomplish. You also have precise control over the fuel flow timing and injector duration which should make starting easier and faster. If you want to start it like a turbine, put in a starter designed to spin the engine at 1000 rpm with no combustion assistance. That way the engine and drivetrain would never have to run in the region below 1000 rpm where kickback and loading/unloading are a problem.
It is helpful to know that the slow starting is intentional. I was not aware of that until now. Unfortunately I was missing this information and had no idea what to expect when my ECU was reprogrammed. Now I know this is normal, and can tell the guys at the airfield... no worries, it was designed to start this way. Will give it another try tomorrow and see what happens.
I have the only flying Viking Sonex with a firewall mounted battery that I know of and it won't be that way for long. I am eager to get the lead out of the tail. Tail mounted batteries have long wires with the consequent voltage drops which will make the starter run slower. Jan's new scheme is a large asset in this circumstance because with timing retarded a slow turning starter has a much better chance than with the previous kickback situation which was really hard on starters. Another side effect is that the cold oil has a chance to get some pressure before the thing comes completely alive. It has taken me some thought to get used to the idea because it is not like anything I have had experience with before. The fact that the remainder of the starts are fairly fast is good. If you need an aerial restart for whatever reason it will be fairly prompt.
Just got off the phone with Howard and he could not be happier. (Other than going in for small surgery) He now can start the engine any time, without worrying about it bogging down / kicking back from too much timing advance or excess fuel being introduced early. The process of gradually advancing timing and fuel is working and provide a much smoother start than the Rotax. It is now the way we envisioned the final outcome. As Howard pointed out, subsequent starts throughout the day are also soft but will take less time. He also said he has not actually timed a start and if it is anything like other engines, the real time is more like 5-10 seconds for the first start and 4-6 for subsequent starts. The method is to hold the starter until the engine has fully spooled up to idle speed.
"Every Honda I have starts within a couple of seconds of being cranked, which is what we should expect"
Go put your Honda in 3 gear. Start it and report back. There are always compromises to be made. The Viking does not disengage the transmission or propeller for starting. It does not have a 28lb steel flywheel. Same is true for the Rotax. Direct drive engines do not have any of these issues but are not quite as smooth at operating rpm.
Howard, are you running the new upgraded ECU software? I am not sure I buy the engine "helping" the starter comment, especially if you are running the starter for 15-20 seconds or more at a time. . That is well outside the duty cycle of the starter. Loading and unloading the overrun starter clutch is also not good for stater life. I am not sure why a half running engine is considered good, especially if your other starts the rest of the day are normal as you indicate. Every Honda I have starts within a couple of seconds of being cranked, which is what we should expect.
I have resigned myself to making sure the battery is fully charged so it will turn the engine for the requisite 15-20 seconds. If I just keep the starter button engaged until the RPM hits 1200 or so we are good to go. It will make 3-5 false starts before deciding its ready. I just gotta power thru. Unusual starting arrangement. Starts are normal the rest of the day.